Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Senegalais laa leegi (updated)


While traveling in France, I realized that I’ve picked up some habits here that I consider to be normal but to an American or European, would not be.  At first, I didn’t think twice about many of these behaviors, but luckily I had my brother and sister there to comment on my quirks.  I will list some of these here, with added explanations:

·      Entering every store saying, “Bonjour, ca va?” to which people just stared at my questioning how they were.
(In Senegal, it is rude not to greet people.  Everyone I pass, I greet and ask how they're doing, with questioning sometimes continuing for several minutes as family members are asked about and some questions even repeated - even with complete strangers.  When I enter a store, it is also important to greet.  Once I forgot, and the man refused to serve me until I had greeted him.  So, naturally, I tried to do the same in France; I was able to check myself when walking down the street since it was packed with people, but in stores the words came out without me thinking.)

·      Hoarding coins to use later and only spending bills
(In Senegal, change is hard to come by.  People prefer that you pay as close to exact as you can.  If you have no change and only large bills, the seller often has to go to friends or nearby sellers to try to find change.  So I've learned to spend large bills in fancier stores that sell more expensive products and keep all the change to use at future dates; and, when those future dates come, I use my larger coins if possible to save up smaller coins for future times when I spend even less.  In France, it was so easy to get change, that I kept giving in my bills and collecting all the coins.  Of course, in France, no one wants you to spend coins, and I was laughed at as I counted all my 1 cent and 5 cent coins to pay for a sandwich.)

·      Glaring at people wearing clothes above their knees
(In Senegal, no one wears clothes these short, except some tourists.  It looks completely unnatural to me now, and I didn't know how to react to these outfits.)

·      Saving yogurt containers to use as bowls later
(In Senegal, everything is reused.  Once, I went to a fancy baptism with my host mom and host grandma where juice boxes were given out.  My host family had never seen them before, so I was instructed to save the boxes in my purse to bring home so that the children in my compound could play with them and pretend to drink out of them.  So, when I saw the yogurt containers, I immediately thought how useful they'd be as bowls.  We could either buy a larger yogurt later and have bowls available or we could use them for another food item.  Regardless of the case, they could definitely come in handy.  My brother and sister scoffed at the idea; after all, we could just buy small yogurts again.)

·      Staring into every food stand (epicerie, boulangerie) we passed
(In Senegal, I eat the same foods over and over again; each dish has only one way to prepare it that every child can list off.  I miss flavors that I'm accustomed to as well as variety.  The food stands had so much to offer in these areas that I couldn't help looking at every item and admiring every part of it.  I've done this with ads in magazines or inventories of food that I make in my head, but seeing it in person was even better.  Obviously, I wasn't always hungry to buy these items, but it was reassuring to know they were there.)

·      Walking slowly through supermarkets without the intention of buying anything but just to see what was being sold
(This is a bad habit I've accumulated in Senegal.  When I'm in a large city here that has a supermarket, I walk around to see what my options are.  As I pass each food item, I imagine the flavor and relish the thought of the taste.  I can't afford most of the items in the supermarket, so it's fun just to look, and I've walked far to supermarkets with friends just to peruse the shelves.  The supermarkets in France were so much bigger with so many more options that it was overwhelming at first, especially as I tried to look at every option.  Luckily, I put time constraints on myself and left the supermarkets before I had seen every aisle, and by the end of my visit, I was finally able to allow myself to walk past shelves to search only for the item I needed.)

·      Desiring everyone to share whatever they’re eating with me and offended when they didn’t
(In Senegal, everything is shared.  From mango slices to pieces of candy - which small pieces are bitten off of to distribute among children and adults alike - no item belongs just to one person.  Kids and adults are constantly saying "Maay ma" or offer me whenever they see something being eaten or drank that they want.  And everyone is good at sharing it, no matter how small the item may be to begin with. Kids don't complain as small pieces of bread that they were eating are broken into morsels; it is just accepted that they will share.  And it's an attitude that I've adopted.  I'm always ready to share what I have, and I expect everyone to share what they have.  So in France, as I saw people around me consuming foods that I wanted, I thought to myself, "Maay ma."  Obviously, this was silly because often the item I wanted was being eaten by a complete stranger who happened to be beside me, but nevertheless, I couldn't help feeling slighted when they didn't turn and offer me a lick of their ice cream or a sip of their tea.)

·      Being really stingy with spending my money
(This has developed for two reasons.  First of all, as a Peace Corps volunteer, I don't make much money, so I don't have much to spend.  Secondly, as a foreigner, I don't like to show that I have money.  Clearly I have more money that my villagers, but I don't like them to see me spending it or else they'll expect me to buy them things all the time.  I see my service as helping them by educating, not by continually purchasing items.  So, even though I could easily pamper myself much more than I do, I try to live at the same level as the villagers in the amount of clothes and other items I accumulate; still, I wind up having much more "stuff" than them with money left over, but I put this extra money aside.  And, when I spend money, I try not to spend it anywhere near my village so that people won't know what I've purchased or how much I've spent.  Even so, it is always obvious when I buy something as everyone sees the foreigner making a purchase, tries to increase the price to make a larger profit, and then bystanders comment on the item I've bought; it is possible to buy anything inconspicuously.  Thus, in France, I was very wary about spending money, and I had a hard time handing out large sums of money.  This made it difficult at times while traveling and trying to have a vacation with two people accustomed to spending money at will, but I was very wary of my environment and the amount whenever I took cash from my wallet.)

·      Expecting to take a mid-day rest every day and disappointed when I didn’t
(In Senegal, nothing happens between 1 and 4 since it's the heat of the day.  People just sit around, make tea, or lie in bed.  Even though I'd like to be working during this time, it's just not an option.  So I've learned to rest at this time as well.  Sometimes this entails sitting and talking, but often I'll lie down in my bed for about an hour, just thinking and not doing anything.  I've become very accustomed to this rest time.  In France, it was surprisingly difficult to continually be active all day without sitting or lying down for a bit in the early afternoon.  I had to push myself to keep going.)

·      Having difficulty staying up past ten pm
(In Senegal, I go into my room around 9:30 and turn my light off around 10/10:30.  I have become so used to only staying up an hour or two past dark, that it was strange to me to try to stay up later.)

·      Getting excited when I saw a variety of vegetables being sold at decent prices
(In Senegal, there are lots of vegetables sold, but it's the same vegetables: eggplant, carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cassava, okra, tomatoes, onions, bitter tomato, Chinese turnips, squash, green peppers, hot peppers, and sometimes cucumbers and lettuce.  During the mid- to late dry season, these items are cheap, but during the rainy season and early dry season, they're expensive.  In France, vegetables from all over the world were available and at farmers' markets, these vegetables were cheap.  I was really excited by red and yellow peppers, spinach, and much more.)

·      Using very simple vocabulary and sentence structures when I speak
(I only know simple Wolof and French vocabulary and sentence structure, so that's all I'm used to using.  On the rare occasions that I meet someone who can speak English, my speech is even simpler.  Plus, since I interact mainly with uneducated people, they can only understand simple logic broken down into each step and repeated many times.  It was difficult to transition back into complex thoughts and expression.)

·      Washing my hair twice a week
(Yes, I admit in Senegal that I only wash my hair this often.  I don't like to waste so much water to wash my hair more frequently nor to use up so much of my highly-valued Pantene shampoo and conditioner.  Clearly, this is improper behavior in France.)

·      Burping on the street
(In Senegal, burping is a complement.  It shows that you enjoyed the meal and that you're eating well.  People burp whenever they want to including in the middle of sentences, during meetings, and while I'm playing my harp.  I've just become accustomed to not holding it in and letting it out whenever it comes.  I accidentally did this once on the street in Paris; luckily, I wasn't with my sister, but I did get some looks from passersby that reminded me to keep this in check.)

·      Talking frequently about the weather
(In Senegal, this is a more common topic of conversation than my experience in Wales.  I cannot pass one person without them mentioning how hot or cold it is or how strong the wind is.  So, I found myself often bringing up the weather in France, which no one was interested in discussing.) 

Now that I’ve returned to Senegal, these behaviors are seen as common among Peace Corps volunteers, and I fit right in.  It’s nice to be back with my host family here and to be surrounded by Senegalese culture.  However, I know that when I return to the US in another year, they will once more be regarded as strange, and I’ll have to work on re-adapting to American life.


On the flip side, there are many aspects of Western life that I had severely missed and greatly appreciated being a part of.  These include:

·      Intellectual/analytical conversations
(I crave this in Senegal, and it was so nice to have deep conversations with so many people while in France.  I appreciated how on meeting people, they would probe me with deep questions or tell me about themselves.  In Senegal, conversation generally revolves around why I am not married, whether I can dance, jokes about my host family, or how hard life in Senegal is.)

·      Reading on public transportation
(The literacy rate in Senegal, especially among adults who are the most frequent travelers, is very low.  I have only twice seen someone reading on public transportation in Senegal, and I always find myself gazing at scenery rather than attracting attention by pulling out a book.  It was reassuring to see people standing on the subway with a book in the hand or children reading books on train rides.)

·      Speaking English
(It was nice to finally be able to express myself without feeling language constraints.  Though I am comfortable speaking Wolof now, I still can't always say what I mean, and my meaning is not always fully understood.  In English, I can directly articulate what I want, and I felt much more at ease with my words.)

·      Seeing literacy as an expectation
(As I wrote earlier, so many Senegalese are illiterate.  I am accustomed to reading phone numbers to people or having people lean over my shoulder as I write and ask my what letter it is.  Even children in school will try to read from my books and will sound out every syllable very slowly without understanding the meaning of what they're saying.  Suddenly, in France, everyone could read, and it was strange to see people of all ages with literature or reading signs.  It's been awhile since I've seen adults or young children with these abilities, and it was a relief to be reminded that literacy should not be something special, but can and should apply to everyone.)

·      Good food
(As I wrote earlier, food in Senegal is repetitious.  It tastes good, but it's the same meals over and over and missing the flavors that I grew up with as well as packed with salt and MSG-filled bouillon cubes.  It was really enjoyable to eat a fresh salad, cheese-covered gnocchi, hand-made pastry, creamy gelato, and much more.  I savored each bite, though I tried not to show others how much I had craved the flavors; it was everything I had imagined while lying in bed during the afternoon heat of the hot, humid wet season with sweat dripping down my body.  And, sadly, I ate much more that I needed to be full while in France.)

·      Greenery
(Senegal is very green during the rainy season and very brown the rest of the year.  It's currently the dry season and has been so since the rains stopped in October.  At this point, not much greenery remains except in vegetable gardens and a few scattered trees.  The green color of grass and trees was so vibrant and unrealistic to me.  I couldn't stop staring at it as it rolled past while I was in trains or cars.  When I walked past it, I couldn't help meandering off the path a bit to feel the squish of soil underneath me.)

·      Snow
(Obviously, there is no snow in Senegal.  Coming from snowy Colgate and the iceberg-filled Southern Ocean/Antarctica, I dearly miss this form of precipitation.  While my sister moaned about it, I secretly was ecstatic; I love the feel of snowflakes on my face and the crunch of snow under my shoe.  When my flight was canceled because of the weather, I slowly walked down the street with my face up in the air, absorbing the snow flakes as they fell.)

·      Mountains
(Senegal, except in Kedagou, is very flat.  So flat, that a nearly invisible upgrade has become steep to me.  In Paris, I was first reminded of this difference when biking around with my brother; we reached a fairly steep street, and he quickly pedaled to the top.  Despite my constant and long-distance biking in Senegal, I was unprepared to use the muscles required to reach the top and found myself sweating hard as I inched up the hill.  Later, when we drove through the Pyrenees and hiked, I couldn't take my mind off the beautiful peaks.  After spending so much time in college hiking mountains, it's something I sorely miss in Senegal.  It was rewarding to see them again, and I felt like I'd returned home to friends.)

·      Bundling up in winter clothes
(I admit, compared to my old standards, France wasn't that cold.  But, compared to my new standards, it was freezing.  Some days, I wore a t-shirt, sweater, my fleece jacket, my sister's Patagonia winter coat, scarf, and ear muffs just to stay warm.  That's a lot of layers, especially for me.  But it reminded me of cold days at Colgate, bundling up to go to class, and I love the feeling of wearing lots of clothes for cold weather.  It was nice to have a cold nose again and feel my hair freeze after a shower, even if it was hard for me to stay warm at times.  My cold-resistance is not what it was while in college or on the ship.)

·      Slipping into the crowd and not drawing any attention to myself
(In Senegal, everything that I do is the object of attention.  Everyone stares at me as I go past, calling out to me and singling me out; sometimes they call me by name, and other times they just refer to me as foreigner.  No matter the case, I know that I am constantly watched by people who both know me and don't.  Whatever I do, will be remarked upon and probably retold to someone in my village.  It's nice to know what it must feel like to be a celebrity, having my name shouted after me, people run up to me, and everyone want to catch my attention.  But, at the same time, I miss just existing and not sticking out.  I'm not someone who needs to draw attention to myself.  It was nice to just be an average person in France that no one really noticed or whose actions were particularly cared about.)

·      Being able to do whatever I want without feeling that my actions are being judged
(This relates directly to the previous bullet.  I know that whatever I do here, people judge me not as Jacqueline Gerson, but as being a foreigner or to tell my village.  No matter how comfortable I feel here, I can never be completely integrated because I stick out.  People are constantly watching me to see my actions and to notice the difference between Senegalese and me.  Clearly, this was not the case while I was in France.)

·      Going to sleep amidst quiet
(Senegalese village life is loud.  At night, radios blast, people call out to each other, and drum circles begin for dancing; there is no such concept as quiet time or respecting others' desire to sleep.  People go about whatever activities they want, regardless of the time of day.  In addition, there are donkeys braying, cocks crowing, dogs barking, coyotes howling, and goats crying.  There is no quiet.  Senegalese have adjusted and are really deep sleepers; my host siblings need to be hit several times or shaken violently before they wake up from sleep.  For me, when I'm not exhausted, it is sometimes hard to fall asleep, though luckily I'm often so tired that this is often not an issue.  But in France, it was soothing to have complete silence as I lay down for the night.)

·      Riding in a comfortable car with family
(As much as I hate pollution, it was nice to have a road trip.  Roads in Senegal are very bumpy and cars packed with people, so the journey is not comfortable by any means.  Sitting in the car with my siblings, the car was extremely spacious, conversation was interesting, and delicious snacks were handy.  I had forgotten how fun car trips can be.)

·      Sitting at a table to eat slowly with personal bowls and good conversation
(In Senegal, everyone sits around a large bowl to share.  Meals are fairly fast with people eating quickly and getting up as soon as they are full.  Not much is said either.  It was nice to enjoy slow meals at restaurants, savoring the company and the food.)

·      Smooth roads
(As I explained above, roads in Senegal are in awful condition.  The 25 km leading from my village to Nioro is so horrible that cars often off-road and travel on what was originally intended as a path for animal-drawn carts and this short distance takes about an hour to travel.  It was nice to sit comfortably in a car without bumping back and forth while maintaining a fast speed along the road.)

·      Cute, healthy dogs
(Dogs in Senegal are not cared for.  They are sickly, flea-covered, and malnourished.  Often, they just lie around without the energy to run or perk up their ear at sounds.  Their state is so depraved that I do not even have a desire to pet them.  Plus, there are only 2 or 3 breeds of dogs in Senegal, and they are not particularly good-looking breeds.  Every dog I saw in France, I wanted to hug and play with.  They were so pampered, so shiny, and so full of energy.)


Many of these aspects of Western life, I often think about while here in Senegal, and it was nice to be re-exposed to them for a bit.  It has refueled me for my remaining year.  I also realized the value I place on many aspects of Western culture, which I was wholly unaware of before coming here.  I am glad that my time in Senegal is not yet up, but I know that I will have an easier time returning to the US after Peace Corps.  Senegalais laa leegi (I’m Senegalese now).

No comments:

Post a Comment